Consider a Curbless Shower
This barrier-free shower floor is not just geared for individuals who have accessibility needs. It is a seamless look that allows a beautiful transition from the main bath area into the shower area. “Tuff-Form” is a preformed shower base made by AKW that provides slope to the drain and sits directly on top of the floor joists. It is designed to receive shower floor tile 2” or smaller. The Tuff-Form is 7/8” thick and designed to be installed next to another tiled surface.
For more information on Tuff-Form barrier free shower bases go to: http://arcfirst.net
Historic Hyde Park Renovation – We’re Finished!
Here are some final pictures of the duplex remodel—we have not shown the finished kitchen on the second floor before.
1st Floor Kitchen Before
2nd Floor Kitchen Before
We thought it would be fun to look at both kitchens side-by-side. Both before pictures illustrate the strong need to remodel those kitchens. It was really neat to see the original metal cabinets and original tile floors were still in these kitchens, even though previous owners did update the back splash and counter tops. Despite differences in the layout of each kitchen, the footprints of both are the same.
1st Floor Kitchen After
2nd Floor Kitchen After
The second floor kitchen was finished with painted and glazed cabinetry; whereas, the first floor kitchen cabinetry was stained and glazed. Although both kitchens have the same cabinet layout, counter top and back splash material, changing the cabinet finishes and slightly changing the color of the back splash material produced two kitchens with very different personalities. It was quite interesting to the homeowners to see how potential renters viewed the different kitchens.
In the end, both units have been rented to people who absolutely love their kitchens!
Great job Gayle Jagoda and team!
How do I know if a stone fireplace was built structurally sound?
Hi, Jake.
Jake Schloegel, CR, President and Founder
I bought a house with a second story pre-fab fireplace surrounded by a stone hearth and faced with stone averaging 1 3/4″ thick on the sides and front all the way to the ceiling which is vaulted. The fireplace is off center in the room so total height is about 8′ on the left edge and 10′ on the right. The weight of all this stone has bothered me ever since I decided I saw a dip in the floor by the fireplace associated with the warping of a doorway beside the fireplace in the same wall that backs the fireplace. When I finally looked at the structure downstairs under the fireplace I found a 2×4 wall over and along the basement posts supporting a beam under this wall. The wall downstairs is just beyond one edge of the fireplace, there is nothing under the center (except the floor joists) and the outside wall is three feet beyond the other end of the fireplace. So the fireplace is sitting on the second story floor joists which are 2×12′s. I can’t tell whether they are doubled or tripled under the fireplace without tearing out the first floor ceiling. I finally got a laser level and found that the entire house, upstairs and down, is admirably level except for 1/4″ of 2nd story sag at the front of the hearth increasing to 5/8″ at the back. The warped doorway is 18″ from the right edge of the fireplace. We have been in the house four years and see zero increase in the doorway warpage and no other problems like cracked sheet rock. Is this much weight on a wood floor totally prohibited, or could it have been done right and produce a 5/8″ sag? Is 5/8″ a little or a lot? Do I need an engineer? The foundation walls are perfect and the builder is known for being a good one.
Thanks, John
John,
That stone produces a lot of weight. If a builder was to load a non-bearing wall on a joist, a sag could occur.
Although you may be in structural compliance with the weight of the stone and spans of the joist, a sag in the floor as you described is to be expected. You also mentioned that the sag has not increased in the 4 years you have lived there and I think that this is a good sign too.
If the house is fairly new, you live in area that is known for thorough building inspections, and the stone veneer is original to the house, that increases the chances that it was done properly.
You could remove the ceiling covering below the fireplace to expose the framing and then invite a structural engineer to inspect the work to determine if it was done properly.
Or you could continue to live with it, inspect it annually, and if no movement takes place, sit back and enjoy the fires.
Jake
Historical Hyde Park Renovation Bathroom!
Gayle Jagoda had a wonderful time restoring this beautiful duplex in historical Hyde Park. She has a passion for working towards restoring older properties back to their original splendor and style—whether they are a classic 1920’s duplex or a vintage 1960’s contemporary!
These before pictures show the main bathrooms in this duplex. As you can see from the after pictures, the tile and fixtures reflect the original style of this house. The wall tile is a porcelain tile that was selected because of its marble pattern, which reflects the style and class of the 1920’s. The white octagon floor tile duplicates the original bathroom floor tile.
You will also see that for one of the bathrooms we refinished and reused an existing pedestal sink. The style and character of this sink could not be duplicated!
Debby Allmon on restoring a fiberglass shower floor
Debby Allmon answers a Kansas City Star’s reader question about restoring a fiberglass shower floor. Read all about it.
Q: I am the owner of a 12-year-old home. The white fiberglass shower floor has become discolored over the years in spite of routine cleaning. I have searched online for solutions, but all have failed. Do you have any suggestions for restoring the surface to its original white color short of replacing the entire floor?
A: Restoring the existing floor to its original color is going to be very difficult. Having a professional refinish or re-coat of the floor is an option. Check out www.miraclemethod.com online to see some examples of refinished fiberglass.
Have you tried the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser? You will probably go through several erasers and use lots of elbow grease, but it can do wonders.
Debby Allmon is a certified remodeler and vice president of Schloegel Design Remodel in Kansas City. Send questions to home@kcstar.com or Handyman, House + Home, FYI, The Kansas City Star, 1729 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, MO 64108.
How do I convert a 1/2 bathroom to 3/4 bathroom inexpensively?
Jake,
Jake Schloegel, CR, President and Founder
I have a half bath I’d like to convert to a 3/4 cheaply but still have it add to the home’s value. There is a toilet at the far end and a vanity cabinet and sink, all on the left wall as you enter the space. There is not enough room for a 36×36 shower base, nor for a 32″ base, to fit in front of the toilet as it faces out, and the floor is tile so I’d rather not tear it up. Is there any possible way to convert the sink area into a shower without the need to cut into the floor? I’ve thought maybe then a small antique table with pitcher and water basin opposite the toilet could substitute for a sink, though brushing teeth in a basin won’t work. I’m afraid the only solution is more than I can afford, e.g. install new drain, move existing fixtures.
Mary Anne
Mary Anne,
I can appreciate you trying to save money in your remodeling project, however, it may be a little difficult to achieve a shower installation without spending some money. A funky installation could do more to detract from the value of your home than to add to it. To meet building codes, there are minimum plumbing fixture clearance requirements. For example, in front of a lavatory (sink), you should have a minimum of 21” to the wall or other fixture. Showers are suppose to be a minimum of 30” square and have a minimum of 24” in front. Regardless of where you install the shower, you will need to install a floor drain thru the floor and connect to a waste line below the floor level. The exception would be if you installed your shower on a raised platform. I suggest you consult with a professional remodeler in your area to see if there is a relatively simple solution to your conundrum. Best of luck to you.
Jake
How do I remove a faux fireplace in my basement?
Dear Jake-
Jake Schloegel, CR, President and Founder
I have a faux fireplace in my basement made of large rocks held together with concrete. I believe behind the fireplace are 2 cracks in the foundation because when it rains water is pouring into my basement out of the rocks of the faux fireplace. I would like to remove the rocks…the fireplace serves absolutely no purpose as the basement is partially finished and only used for storage and laundry! First, would you recommend the removal of the rocks and second, if so how would you recommend removing them? Thanks.
-Meghan
Meghan,
If the rocks are purely decorative and not part of the foundation, you should be able to remove them.
All it takes is a chisel and large hammer and start beating away at them.
Work the mortar joints with the hammer and chisel; after the mortar is removed, then start attacking the rocks.
It’s going to be hard work, but it can be done.
If we were removing the rocks, we would use an electric chipping hammer. Bosch and Dewalt are two tool companies that make these types of tools.
You can visit them at www.dewalt.com and www.boschtools.com.
The good tools are expensive, so it might be best to look into renting a chipping hammer. It will make your project much easier.
Jake
How can I keep earwig bugs out of my basement drain?
Jake,
Jake Schloegel, CR, President and Founder
Basement drains… So recently I fixed the humidity problem in my basement by getting a dehumidifier. I ran a hose from the dehumidifier to the drain. How can I still allow the drain to function but yet keep the earwigs and centipedes from crawling out of the drain? I thought taping a screen over the drain would work but the coating on the floor doesn’t allow me to adhere the screen to the floor. Any suggestions? I still want the drain to drain… just keep the insects in the drain and not on my floor.
Thanks,
Jessica
Jessica,
When you say you are wanting to keep earwigs out of your basement, I’m not sure which kind you are referring to. I assume you are referring to the one pictured on the right below.
I would take a regular insect screen, lay it over the drain cover and over cut it by 6” all the way around the drain. Do the same with some ¼” hardware cloth. Notch the drain cover to allow the humidifier drain pipe to penetrate the cover which will allow the cover to lay flat into the drain bowl. Use light weight wire, which you can purchase at the hardware store, and use this wire at four locations around the perimeter of the drain to secure the screen and hardware cloth to the drain cover. After all this is completed, then place the humidifier drain line into the notch.
Hopefully, this will keep both kinds of earwigs from entering your home.
Jake
Debby Allmon on covered downspout drains
Our very own, Debby Allmon, was featured in the Kansas City Star’s Handyman section answering a reader’s question about covered downspout drains. See what she had to say about it. Here’s the reader’s question:
Q: We have four downspouts that feed into 4-inch corrugated flexible tubing. Only one had an exposed drain in the yard, and we recently discovered another one that was covered with grass. We have raised that one so that it is flush with the ground. How can I find the others that have been covered?
A: I have a couple of suggestions.
I would start with filling the downspout with water and keeping it pretty full while searching for evidence of water in the yard.
I recently read about a slight modification to this idea. Take some liquid laundry detergent and mix with water. Pour this solution into one of the downspouts and then run a garden hose into the downspout. If you see suds in the yard, you have located the drain.
These ideas have worked in some situations, but the flexible tubing is often perforated to allow water to drain out along the line, so you may not be able to identify the drain easily. There is also the possibility that the drain is clogged, which may be remedied by snaking the drain.
Debby Allmon is a certified remodeler and vice president of Schloegel Design Remodel in Kansas City.
Read more: http://www.kansascity.com/2011/07/23/3023924/debby-allmon.html#ixzz1TE5FLXZt
Shawnee couple’s kitchen gets a makeover with unique storage solutions!
We are in the middle of a wonderful remodel of a Shawnee couple’s kitchen, back hallway, laundry closet and powder room. This project has been a lot of fun. We are customizing the kitchen with storage cabinetry for small appliances (mixer, toaster, blender, etc.) that is extended into their garage so that the storage area can be deep enough to house specific appliances. The garage was deep enough so that we were able to extend this cabinet into the garage without losing any room for parking cars. From the kitchen, no one would realize that this cabinet reaches beyond the kitchen wall. Another feature includes toe kick tray storage—the toe kick along their new peninsula contains tray storage drawers that, when closed, appear to be a continuous recessed toe kick. The drawers are latched with push latches so that, when pushed, the drawers pop open to reveal shallow tray storage! Now who wouldn’t want extra storage like this.
Here’s a Slide Show of some of the before and during pictures.
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